In the digital age, as a photographer, you are expected to be familiar and well informed with Photoshop. You can argue over and over again if this is right or wrong and if Photoshop is ruining the photograph. But I see Photoshop as an instrument, just as the camera obscura was a tool for manipulating images. I gathered this list of 10 techniques that help me make the most of my images.

With the growth of my photographic skills, I also had my curiosity for better images. The more I observed the photographers I was seeing in the photo editing service company, the more I noticed that the images taken were not directly from the camera. Post-processing plays an important role in today's photographic society. Regardless of whether subtlety or major compounds are used, it is certainly an important skill to know. In recent years, through experimentation and recovery of what other photographers have shown me, I have created a workflow that I use for my further processing. This list is a general description of how I edit my photos.

 

There are thousands of post-processing methods of the company's photo-editing services. This is exactly what I developed and what worked for me. This is not a beginner's guide in Photoshop. This list is sorted by my workflow.

 

1. Flatten the image in Raw:

This is the basis for my edition. You can not build a house without a solid foundation; Well, you can not edit a photo without even one. It is in Camera Raw where I configure my image to edit it in Photoshop. The first thing I do when I open my images in Camera Raw is adjust the color temperature or exposure if necessary. Next, I'll set the cursor for highlights from -30 to -80. So I put the shadow slider between +30 and +80. I want my reflections to be a bit boring and the shadows to be very flat and almost in the same tonal range of my halftones.

 

This flattens the image a bit (the image will appear quite boring and ugly). I want the image to be really flat when you go to the photo editing company. I apply the image because when I open it in Photoshop, all the colors and techniques I use will give me the correct amount of contrast I need. If the image has a lot of natural contrast in Photoshop, my techniques will ruin the image and give too much contrast.

 

 

2. Use of the correction brush:

I like the healing brush instead of the brush for healing spots because I like to choose my points of origin. I will use the healing brush to eliminate the pimples, the inconsistencies in the skin or any distraction in the background. I also use it in landscapes or sports shots. Run and get rid of any small distraction with this. It's amazing the difference you can make in eliminating distractions from funds. Attention to detail is important here.

 

3. Using the cloning stamp set to Lighter or darker:

I often use the set of cloning stamps to clarify. I will use it in funds and, sometimes, even on the skin. Now, before everyone goes crazy, I use it with 15% opacity. I use it in areas that do not yet have many details. I usually use this even with natural light shots because they tend not to have many details. I'll do it alone when it's not worth using frequency separation. It can be very useful to mix transitions in the sky or in models that do not have many details.

 

4. Learn to dodge and burn

I love to dodge and burn. I love modeling light a little more to my liking. There are many ways to dodge and burn. To be less destructive, I will use a curve adjustment level set for a brighter exposure and one set for a darker exposure. Then, using the layer mask and the brushes, I will avoid and burn where I see fit. Sometimes I will also use the fencing and recording tools in Photoshop. I like them because I can configure them to influence shadows, midtones or lights. There are many things that I like to keep in mind when you walk away and you burn.

 

I try to blow up the subject, try to match the skin tones or other parts of the image and often darken or lighten one side of the image. I try to create a feeling of depth by having a transition from darkness to light in some of my images. I also move away from my shadows in preparation for the contrast that I will add later (Image after dodging and burning)

 

5. Frequency separation:

This is a great technique that is used to soften the skin. This is something to be used with moderation and moderation. I have also used the separation of frequencies in clothes, sky, funds or where I need the background removal service (images after frequency separation)

 

 

6. Black and white layer changed to soft light:

 

This is my favorite post-processing trick. It's a fantastic technique that a friend showed me that I used in almost all my images. I open a layer in black and white and then change the mode of fusion to soft light. Now the image will probably have an excessive contrast. This is the reason why I will drag the opacity around 20-60%. I love the sharp commercial aspect that this effect makes to my images. I also like it because now I can control the luminescence of each color with the sliders in the white and black layer. By adjusting the reds and yellows you can get really beautiful skin tones.

 

7. Hue using color balance, levels, levels and Hue/ sat:

After my level of B & W adjustment, I use these three levels of adjustment to tone my images. I put them in a specific order to get the look I want. First I will have opened the color balance adjustment level. Usually, I'll add blue, cyan or magenta to the shades, red, green or yellow to the midtones and red or yellow to the highlights. This will usually keep the colors more realistic. But that's where you can experiment and see yourself really interesting.

Then I will add a level adjustment level. With this I will add blue and green over my shadows using the output sliders. Since the levels are at the top, it fills the shadows with colors and almost gives the shadows a cinematic look. So I will use the shadow / sat to sharpen my colors. I will adjust the tone, saturation and brightness of each color. This is the place where I have the most fun with the edition. I love experimenting with different shades to get a different look.

 

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8. Crush the reflections with the curves:

I will add a little contrast with a level of adjustment of the curves. Normally I only have a small S curve with different points. Personally I like to crush my culminating moments. This is when the upper point on the right hand side approaches a bit and then a second close point is added by reducing the tonal range of the reflections. Now this will give the image some strange color changes sometimes, I do not do it for all the images. Often I will do it with higher color correction images (example of where I squashed my reflections)

 

9. Use of layer masks:

I can not stress enough how important it is to learn level masks. When I edit or retouch the image, I do not want the effects to be always global. I often play, dodge and burn or modify different parts of the image using layer masks. For example, I am always using layer masks with the Hue / Sat adjustment layer. I do it because usually the hands, the ears, the legs, etc. They are often of different colors. I will change the hue / sat of a color in a certain part of the body, and then I will mask where I want it to affect. Also, sometimes, I will tone the background differently from the theme. Remember: white reveals, black hides.

 

10. Use of different fusion modes:

This is an area that is commonly overlooked. In addition to changing the B & W level in a combination of soft light, I will sometimes change the level of my brightness curves. This only affects the contrast of the image instead of affecting the contrast and saturation when set to normal. I will also open an empty layer, establish the fusion method for the color, use a brush with low opacity (5-15%) and uniform the colors of the skin or clothing by sampling a color that I like and painting over a color that I get like There are 26 different mixing modes.

 

Test them, experience them and become creative. (Final image after the tone: Flare was added with a soft white brush in an empty layer) (Final image after the tone) (Example of final modification) (Forpi and smugglers using my techniques) Remember: use these techniques with care. I always adjust the opacity to my adjustment levels. All the images shown were taken with natural light only.

 

Share any image with a description of the techniques learned from this article in the comments. I would like to see your work and what you have learned. You can find more articles about photography at clippingpath4.wordpress.com